Submitted by liz on Wed, 2014-11-12 11:41
Note: The Newberry Library holds the personal papers of author John Drury.
"Famous For Food''
Breast of Guinea hen! What an exquisite flutter of the palate as we write those words. What thoughts at mention of this dish — of Johnny Bartsch, oldest of the Bre-voort waiters, bringing the generous portion under glass, (which always reminds us of the wax flowers under glass in grandmother's Victorian sitting room — but only as far as the glass is concerned) ; of the savory white flesh, with just the slightest flavor of game; and of the appetizing corn fritters, fresh mushrooms and sweet bit of ham that come with it. We'll wager our last dime that nowhere in the middle west can you get a better breast of Guinea hen than in the main dining room of the Brevoort Hotel in Chicago.
Many are the notables who have partaken of the Brevoort's Guinea hen. Trixie Friganza, the actress, always visits the Brevoort when in town, and always orders Guinea hen; it Is also a favorite dish of Charles S. Deneen, former senator of Illinois, and Len Small, former governor of the state — both of whom are habitues of the dining room. There are many other bigwigs who are Guinea hen addicts, so many that Charles Sandrock, maitre d'hotel here for seventeen years, cannot remember them all.
But don't get the impression that Guinea hen is the Brevoort's only specialty. Other foods are here in abundance. As a matter of fact, the Brevoort occupies about
the same position among local gourmets as does the historic Hotel Brevoort dining room in New York City among gourmets of that metropolis. Chicago's Brevoort
breathes an atmosphere of the unhurried past like its eastern sister — of leisurely dining, good fellowship, and an excellent cuisine. The Brevoort has been catering to Chicago for over a quarter of a century; it is the same today as it was in the days of heavy beards and bustles.
The main dining room is still located in the basement and still has a Victorian air about it; and Henry, the chef, is still here, as well as Charley Sandrock, Johnny Bartsch and many of the other waiters, whose names are familiar to scores of prominent people about town.
Nowhere have we found more truthful advertising than in the sign over the old Brevoort entrance, *Famous For Food." As a hotel, the Brevoort is just another hotel, but as a house of food we oflfer it the silver loving cup. What a tantalizing array of other Brevoort specialties besides Guinea hen — imported Irish bacon and fried apples, with the bacon really coming from Limerick; Special Sirloin Steak a la Chas. S., featuring a delightful garniture that Charley Sandrock invented himself; broiled baby lobsters; Squab en Casserole a la Parisienne; and broiled mushrooms on toast. We could name half a dozen other specialties, but these will give you an idea of what this house offers. On the a la carte menu, which is as inclusive as any in town, you'll also find many German and French dishes, and choice sea foods and game in season.
Luncheon is the high moment in the Brevoort day. The basement dining room is crowded with sleek, well-fed brokers, and aged, white-haired financiers from the
Board of Trade and the La Salle Street financial district, which are just around the corner from the Brevoort.
The Coffee Grill in the lobby upstairs is alive with the conversation of red-faced politicians and prominent officials from the City Hall, nearby; and the famous old "Round Bar" at the rear of the lobby, done in the manner of a luxurious Moorish temple (red lamps and Saracenic scroll work and all) , formerly the Hannah & Hogg Bar, is serving its delicious plate luncheons to lawyers, advertising men and newspaper men. In all of these places, the food purveyed comes from the one
kitchen and Chef Henry Friedenberg watches over that kitchen like a hawk.
The Brevoort Hotel is situated in the center of the Loop and is convenient to all the more important hostelries of the downtown district proper. We advise you not to miss the Brevoort if you want food fit for a king, and want it amid restful surroundings and at the hands of waiters as civil and courteous as any to be found in the best Parisian cafe.
The Brevoort American
120 West Madison Street
Coffee Grill open from 8 :30 A. M. until midnight. Main dining room open for luncheon and dinner (Sundays included) . "Rotmd Bar" for luncheon only.
The a la carte is average in price. Table d'hote dinners, $1,25 and $1J5
Mattre d'hotel: Charles Sandrock